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Save on Energy

 

Radiant Barriers
Solar Attic Fan
Duct Seal System
Pagoda Sensor Light
The Sun Tunnel Sky Light
Wind turbines
Solar Systems

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Radiant Barrier

Radiant barriers are installed in homes—most commonly in attics—to reduce summer heat gain and winter heat loss, which helps lower heating and cooling costs. The barriers consist of a highly reflective material that reflects radiant heat rather than absorbing it.

Heat travels from a warm area to a cool area by a combination of conduction, convection, and radiation. Heat flows by conduction from a hotter material to a colder material when the two materials touch. Heat transfer by convection occurs when a liquid or gas is heated, becomes less dense, and rises. Radiant heat travels in a straight line away from the hot surface and heats anything solid as the wave of energy hits it.

When the sun heats a roof, it's primarily the sun's radiant energy that makes the roof hot. A large portion of this heat travels by conduction through the roofing materials to the attic side of the roof. The hot roof material then radiates its gained heat energy into the cooler attic (some of the roof's heat will radiate in other directions too). A radiant barrier reduces the radiant heat transfer from the roof to the attic space.

Fiberglass re-inforced (perforated) aluminum foil insulation; Fire retardant; Reflects 95% of radiation heat Perforated aluminum foil radiant barrier to eliminating sweating; Use for attics, roof and walls ; Easily stapled into place in attic on ceiling joists or rafters, sealed with aluminum tape; Adhesion Good on clean and dry surface; No Discoloration Resistance Excellent resistance to water, water vapor, oxidation and weathering.

$specialorder

 

 

 

 

 

Solar Attic Fan

Saving energy in your home must start at the top. As warm air rises, it collects in the attic making your entire house hotter and your air conditioning less efficient. This costs you valuable dollars and unnecessary wear and tear on your cooling equipment.

The Solar Attic fan removes hot air from the attic keeping your home cooler while maximizing your air conditioner's efficiency. The solar powered fan draws no electricity from the utility and will cost you nothing to operate!

$specialorder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Duct Seal System

Leaky ducts can reduce heating and cooling system efficiency by as much as 20 percent. Sealing and insulating ducts increases efficiency, lowers your energy bills, and can often pay for itself in energy savings.

Plus, if you’re planning to install new heating and cooling equipment, a well-designed and sealed duct system may allow you to downsize to a smaller, less costly heating and cooling system that will provide better dehumidification.

1) tape all seams in duct work
2) wrap all duct work with radiant barrier
3) use same tape to attach radiant barrier to duct work and seal all seams

$specialorder

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Pagoda Sensor Light


Light your way at night using the power of the sun!

This clasically styled solar Pagoda Sensor Light has a proximity sensor, so you can set it to come on only when you need it to -- or set it to the continuous light option if desired. In Sensor Mode, the bright 5 watt halogen bulb lights your way when motion is detected within 30 feet. In Marker Mode, 3 miniature amber LED lamps glow softly from dusk until dawn.

The sensor system helps save battery life, and because its solar powered, it will have no impact on your utility bill! Use these attractive lights in your garden, along your driveway, to light a path to your front door, or in any outdoor space that needs illumination.


Easy installation - just place in the ground
No wiring
Uses a 1-1/2 watt photovoltaic cell
Rechargeable NiCad battery has a three to five year lifespan
8" diameter x 8-1/2" high
Comes with two 8" stakes

$specialorder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Sun Tunnel Sky Light

The Sun Tunnel is a complete roof-to-ceiling skylight system that channels sunlight around attic obstructions to bring sunlight to hard-to-reach areas of your home. The built-in double-sealed roof flashing prevents water buildup, and provides for a watertight installation on any type of roof.

Available in 14 inch and 22 inch diameters, the Sun Tunnel is the largest diameter flexible tubular skylight you can buy. That means more sunlight for your home. The Sun Tunnel is perfect for hallways, bathrooms, kitchens, living rooms, and walk-in closets. Natural sunlight provides numerous health benefits, helping to alleviate Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), another name for the winter blahs.

Installs in less than two hours with its patented flexi-tube.

The inside dimensions of the outlets: 14" and 22".
The outside dimension of the outlet that is on the ceiling of the lighted area:
14" Sun Tunnel is 16"
22" Sun Tunnel is 24"

Dimension of the roof projections:
14" Sun Tunnel is H 8" W 22"
22" Sun Tunnel is H 8" W 14"

$specialorder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wind Power

 

Wind is a form of solar energy. Winds are caused by the uneven heating of the atmosphere by the sun, the irregularities of the earth's surface, and rotation of the earth. Wind flow patterns are modified by the earth's terrain, bodies of water, and vegetation. Humans use this wind flow, or motion energy, for many purposes: sailing, flying a kite, and even generating electricity.

The terms wind energy or wind power describe the process by which the wind is used to generate mechanical power or electricity. Wind turbines convert the kinetic energy in the wind into mechanical power. This mechanical power can be used for specific tasks (such as grinding grain or pumping water) or a generator can convert this mechanical power into electricity.

Wind power makes a wonderful power source if you live in a good wind area. Wind can be used as back up power in the event of a power outage or if you have enough energy can power the entire house. It is an economical and excellent source of electricity if you live outside of the power grid and is environmentally friendly.

Typically, at an average annual wind speed of 12 MPH the a wind energy system will produce about 4800 kWh of energy per year. That will reduce an average family's bill by up to 40% per year (at an average annual use of 12,000 kWh/year). There are lots of full service windmill installation companies as well as do-it-yourself kits on the market.

 

There are a few site requirements that will determine if wind power is right for you. You will need:

-At least a 10 MPH average annual wind speed (best results at 12 MPH or more)
-Property of at least 1/2 acre with few obstructions
-Ability to have a structure at least 42' tall on your property
(check with your HOA, city code restrictions, etc.)


So how do wind turbines make electricity? Simply stated, a wind turbine works the opposite of a fan. Instead of using electricity to make wind, like a fan, wind turbines use wind to make electricity. The wind turns the blades, which spin a shaft, which connects to a generator and makes electricity.

Most windmill systems work in tandem with your electric utility to power your house. When the wind isn’t blowing, the utility supplies your electricity. But when it’s windy out, the windmill provides clean, quiet electricity. When it generates more electricity than you need, your meter can actually spin backwards—which means you’re essentially selling electricity back to the utility.

 

Gried-Tied Wind turbines

utility-connected wind generator designed specifically for homes and small businesses. When the wind isn’t blowing, the utility supplies your electricity. But when it’s windy out, your WindTurbine provides clean, quiet electricity. When it generates more electricity than you need, your meter can actually spin backwards—which means you’re essentially selling electricity back to the utility.

$specialorder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Solar Power

Whether on a solar-powered calculator or an international space station, solar panels generate electricity using the same principles of electronics as chemical batteries or standard electrical outlets. With solar panels, it's all about the free flow of electrons through a circuit.

Silicon is the raw material used to make solar cells. It's the second most abundant element on Earth.

There are three main types:

Monocrystalline or single crystal cells : The first generation of solar cells
excellent conversion rate (12 - 16%) (23% under laboratory conditions)
BUT, making them is a painstaking, therefore expensive process
another drawback - it takes a lot of energy to obtain pure crystal
Polycrystalline cells lower production costs, requiring less energy to make
11 - 13% conversion efficiency (18% in the lab)
Amorphous a more recent technology (mid-70's) lower production costs, but unfortunately also lower efficiency (8 - 10%) (13% in the lab)
This process can use very thin layers of amorphous silicon (0.3 - 1.0 microns compared to 500 microns for the other types). Using a vacuum spraying process, very thin layers can be applied on glass, metal or even flexible plastic surfaces. Amorphous silicon is usually the kind used in consumer goods such as calculators and watches.

Amorphous panels need about twice the surface area to produce the same amount of electricity, and their output deteriorates more quickly over time, but they react better to diffuse and fluorescent light and work better at higher temperatures.

 

A single solar cell always produces a VOLTAGE of approximately 0.5 volts, regardless of its size. For higher voltages, you have to connect individual cells in SERIES to add their voltages. The larger the solar cell, the greater the CURRENT will be. Current is measured in AMPERES.
You can also connect cells in PARALLEL to increase current.
The most common solar panels are for 12 V applications. To reach that voltage, 24 cells would be sufficient, but for charging batteries and in order to compensate for voltage drops due to various factors, a PV panel normally contains between 28 and 40 cells for a higher voltage. You don't really need to think about the individual cells. All you need to know is that they are protected from humidity and the elements inside the panel, which works as a whole.

The panel has to deliver more than 12 volts to charge a 12-volt battery. Voltage can be compared with water pressure in a hose. If the "pressure" of the electrons isn't high enough, the electricity can't "penetrate" the battery.

Voltage can drop for several reasons:

At high temperatures. (Unlike thermal solar energy, PV works less well when it's very hot! In tropical climates, choose higher voltage panels.)
As a result of long wires. It's important to keep your wiring between your panels and other parts of your installation as short as possible.
Diodes can also cause small voltage losses, as we'll see later.
Just as voltage can be likened to water pressure in a hose, current can be likened to the flow, or the amount of water (or electrons) passing through. A thin hose will take longer to fill a swimming pool than a thicker hose with the same pressure.

A panel that produces 2 amperes sends twice as many electrons as a one-ampere panel. When talking of PV panels, you usually refer to their POWER (measured in WATTS).

VOLTAGE (electrical "pressure") is measured in VOLTS
CURRENT is measured in AMPERES.
POWER (WATTS) is calculated by multiplying these two.

VOLTS x AMPERES = WATTS

 

 

How Much Will My Panels Produce?

One square meter of solar panels can produce up to 150 watts of maintenance-free power for up to thirty years. They even work on diffuse light on overcast days, albeit with less output. The voltage produced by PV panels remains roughly the same regardless of the weather, but the current (amps) and the power (watts) will vary.

The most important variable to bear in mind when planning a photovoltaic installation is the power output, which will basically depend on four factors:

the peak power of your panels (measured in peak-watts or Wp)
light intensity
the number of hours of exposure to the sun and
the angle of exposure to the sun

 

The Intensity of Sunlight

A panel's power is expressed in peak watts, the number of watts it will produce in optimal conditions, i.e. at noon in direct sunlight in cold weather. Maximum sun intensity is 1.000 W/m2.

The following factors will influence the amount of sunlight reaching the PV panels:

1.Weather conditions (cloud cover, fog etc.)

2. How high the sun is in the sky

3. The number of daylight hours

1) As to the first factor, oversimplifying somewhat, a 50 watt panel should produce 50 watts for each hour of sunshine at 1.000 W/m². It will produce about half that amount (25 watts each hour) when exposed to 1/2 the light (500 W/m²). Diffuse light passing through thin clouds might mean 300 W/m². In very bad weather conditions with thick, dark clouds, light intensity could fall to 100 W/m² with only 5 Watts produced per hour.

2) The second factor, the height of the sun over the horizon varies with the seasons. When the sun is very high in the sky (summer), its rays travel through the atmosphere more quickly over a shorter distance than when it's low in the sky (winter). Light is scattered more and becomes more diffuse when passing through fog or pollution. A spot that gets plenty of sun 9 months of the year might be shadowed from November to January due to obstacles (trees, chimneys, rooftops etc.).

3) The third factor creates the greatest problems for those who don't happen to live close to the Equator, i.e. the difference in the number of hours of sunlight between the seasons. This is a huge subject that we'll have to take a closer look at later.

 

Looking for the Sun

It's always best to best to have your panels facing south at the ideal tilt angle depending on your latitude and the time of year. (Magnetic south as indicated by a compass is actually 16² west of true south.)

THE SUN'S RAYS SHOULD BE PERPENDICULAR TO THE PANELS.
SUNLIGHT SHOULD HIT THEM AT A 90° ANGLE.

The ideal situation in Europe is to have a south-facing roof at an angle between 40 and 60 degrees, or, even better, a flat roof (or surface) on which your panels can be adjusted at will. You may decide to deviate from these values for convenience or for esthetic reasons, in order to fit them into the existing architectural structure. The future of PV will depend to a large extent on the harmonious integration of panels in buildings.-One example of this: In an apartment building in Denmark, where they wanted to install glass sides in the balconies (to limit heat loss), they realized that they could just as easily install frameless PV panels at a minimal additional cost. The loss in output due to the vertical position and the less-than-ideal location (facing south-west) was estimated at 30%.

Some people use sophisticated panel mounts called "trackers" that follow the path of the sun during the day. These automatic systems can increase output 50% in the summer and 20% in the winter, but this only increases the difference in output between the seasons. They are also expensive. The main reason against using them in Europe is the tremendous amount of diffuse light.

1. You can adjust your panels' position manually to get the best tilt angle for each season. Take your latitude and add 15° for the winter, and subtract 15° for the summer. At the spring and autumn equinoxes, the best angle is equal to your latitude.

2. If you leave your panel in a fixed position, you can decide to leave it at the best angle for the winter to help even out seasonal performance.

3. At the Equator, a panel can be placed horizontally for the most intense rays at noon. In Central Europe, when the sun is 30° above the horizon, however, this same position would mean a loss of about half of the sun's intensity (equivalent to 500 W/m²) compared to a tilt angle of 60°.

4. The sun is 70° above the horizon on June 21st in Belgium, but 20° in the dead of winter. (10° in Stockholm)

5. It is advisable to have at least a 15° tilt to avoid rain accumulating on your panels. A greater angle will help keep them free of snow.

6. Snow on the ground is a welcome sight in winter -it increases diffuse light considerably!

 

 

Grid-Tied Solar Systems

Grid tied systems do not use batteries! The panels work by producing DC power during sunlight hours and converting it to AC power through an inverter. The inverter then feeds the load required by the home, before pushing the remaining AC power through a "net meter" out to the grid.

Net meters are provided by your utility company when you install the system. The net meter is a bi-directional electric meter that spins forward as usual when you are using more power in your home than you are producing with your panels (at night, for instance), and spins BACKWARD when you are producing more electricity than you are using in your home. This is how you generate credits with your utility!

$specialorder

 

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